2000 Years of History

"Seek Knowledge from the Cradle to the Grave" Muhammad

Even though that's not what is written above it still a great quote to open this blog with. This past Sunday I was able to further my knowledge of a few things. Something that I take pride in doing. Something that keeps me going with a grin on my face. So Even though I have been to the Sultanahmet Square dozens of times I had yet to go inside any of the monuments, which have been here for quite some time, about 1400 years give or take. This area is where the Byzantine Emperors had their palaces, where the hills of the twisted streets and alleys slope down to the Bosphorus straight and the Marmara Sea, this is where they lived and prospered. 

I jumped right into my day wanting to hit the touristy places before the tourist I took a long walk from Taksim down Istikal Caddesi across the Golden Horn, up through the smaller Spice bazaar and then to Sultanahmet. I would love to post almost all of the 200 pictures I took but for time sake I will only post the ones which pertain to the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. These two monuments face each other in the square and are two of the most prominent buildings in Muslim history as well as archeological history.  So up I marched to the very short and quick line to the Hagia Sophia. This first photo is of the original Emperors entrance to the Mosque, the Imperial Gate. Where only the worthy were allowed to enter, now its the main entrance. This was built in the 6th centry and still stands as part of the main support for the monument. There are only a few surviving Byzantine Mosaics inside and the first is just beyond this gate, Christ on a throne with an emperor kneeling above the main doorway. This has been dated back to 886 AD. After the conquest of Istanbul in like 1450 something, the church was transformed into a mosque by Ottoman sultans. 

One of the first pieces they changed was the niche or the mihrab a solid gold looking throne in the direction of Mecca. To the left of the mihrab is the sultans loge a place where he could sit and observe from high over the praying people. On the other side of the mihrab is the minbar or the pulpit. Behind the mihrab are huge gorgeous stained glass windows with beautiful Arabic writings and designs, I couldn't get a good photo of all of them but this one with the purple was my favorite.

Being inside the Hagia Sophia is breath taking for various obvious reasons, the size, the age, the history but what amazed me most was the attention to detail, and the change in detail. Let me explain. As you walk in as I have mentioned there are stone entrance ways of red and cream layered brick or marble of some sort. Then you are in a passage of high volted ceilings covered with gold paint and floral designs with an amazing mosaic in the center. Once you pass that and enter the center of the monument again the settings change. The walls are now cream, red, marron, teal, and dark green marble. Layer upon layer of beautiful marble is places next to, on top of, below, and around every corner of the monuments first level. It does not stop there on no!

These two photos best describe what I am talking about. See all the different colors of marble? Then see that the pillar at the tops are carved white marble, smooth and intrinsically carved into complex designs, patters, and scripts. Then above that there is more painted patterns in gold and red... ALL OVER! It was a never ending, crank in my neck experience. I wanted a photo of each pattern, each detail, each script (and I honestly think I got them). Here are more of my favorite pieces. 

See what I am talking about? These are all in the same building and for the most part on the same floor... yes there are two floors... I spent alot of time in the Hagia Sophia (I wanted my 20 TL worth) I at first walked all around and observed, then I did the touristy thing and got out my guide book and read about it. The first think that caught my eye was that the Hagia Sophia was first a church then a mosque but I think I already mentioned that. Next was the fact that I could go to the upper floors via an ancient Byzantine ramp that winds up. 

This is the ramp... no stairs just about a 2 minute wind up this cobble stone walk way. The roof was unusually short I could touch it and was slightly crept out when I started to imagine people 1400 years ago coming here to pray. What would they have thought seeing this? What would they have seen? To me the stones where smooth from so many passers walking up them. The passage was lite with electric lamps imitating torches. It was an interesting and surreal thought that I had especially since I was the only one in the passage. The upper floors where amazing in that you got a great view of the müezzin mahfillis or the four large Koran symoblic things... honestly I dont know what to call them. They were green, disks hung high in the dome. You will have to see the pictures in order to understand what I mean. They were put there, and made as big as they are so that people could easily read the Koran during prayer times. 

Another interesting thing to me was something I notices as I was leaving the mosque. After spending about an hour admiring the place I was hungry and needed some sunlight (the place is poorly lit to help preserve the mosaics inside). Back down the strange small passage I went and back to the center of the mosque. I notices groups of people doing the strangest thing, they were walking up to a pillar, sticking their finger in it then spinning around. Turns out its the Pillar of St. Gregory the Miracle Worker and you make a wish or something. Well I was a little grossed out at the thought of so many people sticking their fingers in this little whole so I passed. Plus I have Telli Baba! Wait for the next post for that story... 

I left the mosque and was surprised to see that we had to leave, then reenter at a different location to be able to see the tombs. I think they did this because the tombs are free to the public. Again, I was SHOCKED by the detail. This time it was all ceramics. The walls, the roof, the ceiling, the pillars, everything was ceramic, everything was different colors, designs, patters. The photos pretty much sum up my next hour in the Hagia Sophia. Thes ceramic designs have made buying a ceramic bowl and some coffee coasters a must!